Foster Home and Volunteer Guidelines

Please note: the program directors are responsible professionally, legally, and financially for all the dogs and their care. All questions about the dogs and all suggestions for the dogs’ care must be referred to the program directors before any action is taken.

Rescue and Clinical Care

Clinical care consists of an initial in-take exam as well as conscientious treatment for whatever medical conditions the exam might reveal. However, extremely important for our financial health: We do not do additional blood work, allergy testing, x-rays, and other pre-op or pre-HW treatment tests unless the dog is elderly or severely compromised medically; any additional work-ups must be authorized by one of the coordinators. Foster Homes and Volunteers taking our dogs to clinics need to make sure the clinic is doing vaccinations (including bordetella for kennel cough), basic tests for parasites, basic HW treatment and that’s it; do not allow the clinic to run up the tests and charges without consulting the coordinators first. Although we are in fairly good financial shape due to our adoptions and donors, we cannot afford hundreds of dollars on each dog for those tests, and clinics must understand that about rescue groups. If bills are run up for individual dogs, we are unable to help other dogs and would even be in danger of folding since we are completely dependent on donations. If you feel you have an emergency with your foster Sheltie, e-mail or call one or all of the coordinators immediately; leave a message if you don't get us right away.

Transports: We recommend keeping old bath towels and paper towels in the car in case a dog gets sick, and bringing a crate in case the dog is too scared to ride on the seat. Also keep leash and choke or greyhound collar in the car for new rescues in case the dog tries to bolt, though if very small, carry her to the car, still with that collar on and leash attached. We also keep CapStar in our cars: it doesn’t prevent fleas, but kills them instantly if we’re bringing in a dog from the shelter, and she is heavily infested. Of course, you end up with dead fleas to vacuum, but the dog goes into the clinic in a lot better shape. In some cases, killing those fleas immediately can be a matter of life or death if the dog is severely anemic as a result of heavy flea infestation. We've had a couple of dogs who were so infected they were only points away from needing transfusions. If you're transporting a rescue for us from a considerable distance, also keep a bowl and bottled water in the car for the dog and allow for comfort stops, of course keeping collar and leash on her. If the dog has fleas or seed ticks, be sure to vacuum your car thoroughly after transport. As a side-note, we would recommend rescuers not wear, or remove 'dangly' earrings when pulling frightened dogs from shelters and by-roads. Sometimes they are frightened and struggle a bit: the paws can be caught in these earrings and cause some painful results for rescuers.
HSR Tags: We will provide each dog with a numbered HSR Tag that must be kept on the collar along with the rabies tag. Our dogs are also microchipped.
Choke and Greyhound Collars: These are absolutely essential for any transports from shelters, to and from clinics, and for all walks. Shelties will slip a regular collar in a heartbeat: keep those choke or greyhound collars handy and use them for every single outing. We will reimburse you for collar and leash as well as the CapStar above (you can get it from your vet). Always keep receipts for any money you spend on your foster unless you consider that a donation, which some foster families do. Then be sure to include it in your tax return.

Initial Clinical In-take:

Foster Homes and Volunteers taking our Shelties to the clinics need to ask if the dog is neutered (obvious) or spayed (not so obvious; ask the doctor to check for spay scar) and a general idea of the dog's age. The doctors don't just look at tartar build-up but also the wear on the teeth and if there are any missing. One thing you'll also learn is to check the gums: they should be pink; pale or white gums indicate possible illness, anemia, or shock. When you press gently on the gums (if he'll let you), the thumb print should come back pink, not stay white. If you see white gums on the dog in the shelter, get him quickly to the clinic.

Foster Homes and Volunteers taking our Shelties to the clinics need to know that in addition to rabies and DHLP vaccinations, we also do the Bordetella vaccine for kennel cough. Some clinics do not routinely give this one, and we need to remind them that rescue groups do. Foster homes also need to make sure their resident dogs have the Bordetella shot since we are exposing them to rescue dogs.

In addition to vaccinations and HW test, we also test for other parasites and treat for them as well. We need to make sure the clinic does the fecal for tape, round, and hookworms. Additionally, the dog needs to be given flea preventative like Frontline, unless the dog tests positive for heartworms; in that case, we wait to do the Frontline and use flea sprays during the treatment. If the dog tests negative, then he is immediately put on heartworm and flea preventative.

If your foster dog is having surgery (spay, neuter, or other) and is an older dog or is anemic, we do ask for the pre-op blood workup to make sure the dog is strong and healthy enough for the surgery. Generally, though, we don't do surgeries or proceed with heartworm treatment on anemic or malnourished dogs until they are well enough to sustain the operation or treatment -- usually a couple of weeks. Post-op, be sure to watch the incision for pulled stitches, redness, swelling, and odor. If the incision looks suspicious to you, a quick sniff will generally confirm your suspicion of infection: take your foster Sheltie to the clinic right away; just let us know you need to do this as the directors approve all procedures done on our dogs. The doctor will irrigate the incision and give your foster an injection along with pills to take home. If you have any questions at all, or you feel you have an emergency, call or text message the directors.

Medications: we know our foster homes will be vigilant about administering any prescriptions. Some of the best ways to do this are hiding the pills in cheese, cream cheese, peanut butter, or hotdog bits. Most dogs will line up right away at medicine time. If the dog is a 'snapper', put him on a sit-stay, with the medicine-treat balled in your hand (make a fist), and a firm "be gentle"; let him smell it; then open you hand flat as you would with a horse so that he can only take the treat from the palm; be sure to praise him for doing so and gently. That way he is conditioned to slow down a bit, can't bite your fingers, and learns to be mannerly. Some of these rescued Shelties have never had treats; others are terribly hungry and afraid treats will be taken from them. Easy as it goes, and your foster will quickly learn.

Dental: We do not do teeth cleaning routinely, as we feel the new owners can take care of that. However, if the teeth and gums are seriously dirty and the breath is very bad, we WILL do the teeth cleaning for the health of the dog.

Heartworms: We have a separate guideline sheet for Heartworm Disease Aftercare. If your foster Sheltie is having HW treatment, we will ask the doctor what level the dog is and whether the treatment will be full or split over four weeks. The coordinators and foster homes need to be sure the follow-up is done for the baby heartworms after the full treatment is completed, generally one week later.

Home Care

Introductions: Some rescues are frightened when they first enter the foster home. Some of the more experienced resident dogs are very helpful in acclimating the new dog, even guiding her into the house from the car. Most rescues are best if introduced to the other dogs and to the family gradually and quietly. Most Shelties get along well with cats, but if they chase or herd them too much, then we need to know that. Do report any undue problems with resident dogs or cats, and we will move the dog to another foster home.

Behavior Assessment: We need our foster homes to evaluate our dogs' behavior by introducing them to a variety of situations, determining what behaviors may need work and socializing them for their new lives. We like the foster homes to take the dogs on walks, car trips, outings such as trips to PetSmart etc., observing the dogs with other adults, children, noise, etc. We also want to see how the dogs relate to other dogs and cats. If foster homes note any aggression toward people or other animals, that does not ease as the dog settles in, we need to know that immediately. If our foster dog bites any animal or person, especially a child, we need to know that immediately and will remove our dog from the foster home.

House training: we do ask our foster homes to let us know if the dog seems well trained, and if not to help the dog learn through crating, treat-training, and vigilance. If needed, consult the tips sheet we send our adoptive homes and which is on our web site.

Manners: we appreciate our foster homes teaching our rescued Shelties the basics of 'sit' and 'stay' along with healthy walks on leash with a slip, choke, or greyhound collar -- without pulling
or dragging. Basic obedience training will make fostering that much more pleasant and will assist the dog's adoptability.

Feeding: we trust that our foster homes offer good kibble to their own resident dogs, and the foster dogs can eat that as well. We recommend ProPlan, Iams, Nutro, etc. because they are processed better by dogs than some of the cheaper brands. If your foster is a bit reluctant to eat the first day or so, offer some Mighty Dog mixed in. They also all seem to like a little canned Veg-All with the kibble. However, as noted earlier, some of the rescues are very hungry; don't be surprised if the opposite happens, and yours eats a great deal the first few days: he may simply need to eat a lot, or, again, he may be afraid the food will disappear. In a few days, he should be more comfortable. The same applies to water: some dogs seem almost afraid of it at first; others can't seem to drink enough of it. After checking for diabetes or hypothyroidism or Cushing’s, and those tests are fine, we think that's because they were deprived of water in their previous lives. Eventually, this, too, evens out. It's also true that they may not like the taste of the water; sometimes using a ceramic bowl will help. If you note some food aggression between dogs, then feed your foster in another room or in his crate. If the aggression continues, then we may need to move the dog to another foster home for everyone's comfort.

Grooming: normal grooming (baths, brushing) is the responsibility of the foster home. However, if the dog is badly matted, has obvious dermatitis, or excessively long nails, a professional grooming is in order, and HSR will reimburse the cost of providing one. While you're brushing your foster, please keep a vigilant eye for skin, coat, eye and ear problems because even after clinic care, problems can show up, especially for a dog coming in from a shelter or who has been 'out there' for a while in the woods and byroads. If you see your foster dog shaking her head, look inside the ears: black gunk spells ear mites; inflammation spells infection. If your foster seems to be rubbing her rear end on the floor or has bouts of diarrhea, she may have worms; eggs could have hatched after she was vetted. If her eyes are tearing excessively and reddening, she may have an infection. In any of these cases, get her to the clinic for check-up and medication. Dogs' Names: Adoptive homes, of course, are free to change their dogs' names, but foster homes must not do so as the names are the ones we use for all our medical records, web site, and program statistics.

Happy Grams: We encourage your writing the List about your foster Sheltie: everyone enjoys those updates, and we add details to the dog's description on the web site. We also need photos, so if you can do that for us, we will get them uploaded quickly, further helping the dog's adoption.

Sheltie Shuffle: Finally, some dogs turn out to be more ill, or have more behavioral problems, than originally believed. We recognize the prospect of helping these dogs can be frightening or overwhelming. HSR is blessed with foster homes that take a special interest in these challenges, and it is no “failure” to ask that such a dog be moved to a home with more experience in these areas. Our volunteers are our most valuable resource, and we never wish to overburden them either physically or emotionally.

Adoptions

If a prospective home comes to see your foster, we will get your permission first to give them the phone number, and only after we have reviewed their application, and another volunteer has done the home check. If family and Sheltie are a match, the home signs the final adoption agreement form linked below (please keep on your computer or print out extra copies) and provides the donation check. We never let our Shelties leave the program -- even for a sleepover -- without both of those, though we will hold the check a few days if the family wants to be sure. If you are transporting a Sheltie to the home, the same procedure applies; they must complete the paperwork and donation check before you leave the dog. After the dog's adoption, you will mail the paperwork to the HSR address on the volunteer list.

How the match is determined: we make every effort to carefully review each application, and we send volunteers to the applicant’s home to talk with them and make sure this is a safe, dog-friendly home. When the applicant arrives at your home, often both dog and applicant “know” and this is a beautiful thing to watch as they fall in love. The family really wants this dog and has worked hard to meet him or her; the dog feels the warmth and love, nothing held back, and is thrilled. However, like anything else in life, sometimes despite everyone’s best efforts, the match does not work. The family seems reserved with the dog, or the dog does not seem to respond to the family or even seems nervous with them. And sometimes, though rarely in our experience, the foster home gets definite vibes that this is not a good family for the dog. We believe in listening to those vibes through our own experiences in adoptions through the years, and in every case the vibes proved right. So, though the coordinators make final decisions because we are responsible for this program and to all our homes and supporters, we not only welcome but also need to hear from the foster home if there is a real concern that the dog should not go home with this family. Step out of the room and call us; or if you cannot reach one of us, tell the family you have to let another family see the dog as promised, and wait until we get back with you. Most likely, this will never happen to you because we are so careful, but we want you to know what to do to protect your foster.

Extremely Important:

New owners need to understand these are rescued Shelties and must be watched and guarded even more closely than usual. If you do the final adoption, make sure the new owners know we require that our HSR tag be kept on our dog's collar, even if they buy a new one. We've had several cases where the adopted dog has slipped out through a door or gate accidentally left open. We get those calls and reunite family and Sheltie within hours. New owners should also provide their own ID tag with their phone number as well. We further always urge owners to have their dogs tattooed or microchipped. We microchip and recommend that for all pets, including birds.

If a new adoptive family leaves with your foster, be sure the dog has a choke or greyhound collar on: we've had dogs slip the collar the instant they get to the car or arrive home. We do
not want any tragedies, so this is an absolute requirement. Buy extra choke/greyhound collars if you need them and send us the bill, but be sure this is followed rigorously.

While we welcome adoption referrals from our foster homes, who know their dogs very well, other than immediate family for whom we are willing to vouch, ALL applicants will receive a home visit from an impartial volunteer.

How to Let Go: If you do an adoption, to help both the dog and family, it's best to leave the room if the family comes to your home, so they can leave with the dog; or if you go to the family's home, to ask the family to take the dog to another room so you can quietly leave. Letting go of your foster dog will be one of the hardest things you have ever had to do because you love this dog so much, and in some cases, you may want one of us to place the dog without your involvement – adoption team leaders have been in that situation and understand completely. Either way, take heart: we have found that when we give our dogs the best medical care possible and all the love we can provide them, though they love us too, they are now both physically and emotionally ready for their forever homes, and the new home really wants and needs your foster Sheltie. In every case, the now rehabilitated Sheltie has understood when her new home has finally come for her; seeing that joy for both family and dog is one of the many blessings you will have as a foster parent, even if you need to cry a bit later. It also helps to remember that another Sheltie is desperately going to need you again -- sooner than you might imagine.